Travel: Grenada

En route, against a backdrop of chattering birds and buzzing insects, Bedeau taught us about the profusion of trees and herbs that sprung from the island's rich volcanic soil, as well as a little of his life philosophy.

Every day, for the last 50 of his 72 years, the charismatic local guide has climbed the footpaths that traverse the mountains of Grenada. He's also rowed twice round the island in a boat he made himself, built his own home by hand and has plans to build another on the neighbouring island of Carriacou. All this at an age when most Brits' idea of an active lifestyle amounts to a night out at the bingo.

Bedeau radiates wellbeing and looks decades younger than his actual age. He laughs when he explains how his son has been trying to drag him into the 21st century by persuading him to use a gas cooker. "I will, if it makes him happy," he says, his eyes crinkling with mirth. "But I don't need it."

More extraordinary, considering his affinity with nature, is that Bedeau once worked for London Underground, checking tickets at Hounslow Central. "It wasn't for me," he concedes. "I wanted to see it, then I wanted to go, but I needed to earn my ticket home first."

Who can blame him with such a wealth of beauty on his doorstep? In due course we reach the Seven Sisters, where another guide is entertaining visitors by bounding across a sheer cliff face before diving into the thundering cascades below, to much applause.

If we'd been braver we could have trekked to the top ourselves, and leaped into the pool below - many visitors do - but Bedeau's stories have us mesmerised, and somehow they, and the exceptional vista before us, are enough.

We had begun our holiday four days previously, on a charter flight from Gatwick, after travelling down from Edinburgh and spending the night in a Yotel - a cross between a small hotel room and a first-class airline cabin seat - from the creators of the Yo! Sushi restaurant chain. The idea is to blend air travel with Japanese capsule hotels: small but luxurious cabins, competitively priced and located within airport terminals at Gatwick and Heathrow. At 6ft 5ins, it's fair to say my other half is not part of the brand's ideal demographic, but despite a few elbows in faces at times, we found it strangely thrilling to roll out of bed, and just a few minutes later be at the front of the check-in queue.

It's more than 25 years since the United States led an invasion of Grenada, with the aim of eliminating a Cuban military base. Now cruise ships dock every day in the island's capital St George's, full of passengers keen to soak up the island's relaxed vibe.

All the usual Caribbean stereotypes are on hand - aquamarine seas, white sand beaches fringed with swaying palm trees and plenty of winter sun for those looking to escape Scotland's dreich weather. Grand Anse is the island's finest swathe of sand, sweeping along three glorious kilometres with looming, dark green mountains as a backdrop. But the island's laid-back appearance belies the amount there is to see and do here.

St George's boasts an exceptional fish market and all manner of goods can be found for sale on its main square, especially spices such as nutmeg, which are still the island's biggest industry despite extensive damage done to crops and the island as a whole after the horrific Hurricane Ivan of 2004.

Known as the Spice Island, Grenada also has rich supplies of cloves, ginger, cinnamon and cocoa that delicately scent the air wherever you happen to be, and was eight-times-winner of a gold medal at Chelsea Flower Show for best foreign exhibit.

On our way back from our visit to the Seven Sisters Falls in the rainforest, we called in for lunch at the Belmont Estate, the island's biggest plantation, which dates from the 17th century. The estate has produced coffee, sugar and nutmeg but now concentrates on cocoa, which is used to make some of the world's best chocolate. You can visit the estate museum and afterwards sit down to a delicious and reasonably priced three-course buffet lunch, while enjoying exceptional views from the plantation's vantage point high in the hills.

If cocoa and nutmeg are the lifeblood of Grenada though, rum is its beating heart. There are rum shacks throughout the island, offering ample opportunity to sample the local brew, and every restaurant serves its own version of rum punch, each drink sprinkled delicately with nutmeg.

Rovers Rum, in the northern parish of St Patrick, produces more than 80,000 bottles of the hard stuff a year - almost all of it sold to Grenadians. The distillery operates much as it did when it opened in 1785 and is the only one in the world to still use a waterwheel to crush its sugar cane.

It is strangely meditative, watching the weight of water falling against the wheel's paddles, building the momentum needed to rotate a series of axles and cogs that drive the mill.

We came to with a start a few minutes later though, sampling the product of the waterwheel's industry at one of the distillery's infamous tasting sessions, our cheeks burning and eyes watering as we rolled the concoction round our mouths. The rum comes in at 152 proof - almost 75 per cent alcohol - and while there was a watered-down version available for visitors, with our faces already pink with alcohol we decided to bid a hasty retreat back to our hotel in an attempt to maintain our dignity.

During the first half of our trip we stayed at the Le Phare Bleu, a new marina and boutique resort development that provides state-of-the-art facilities for sailors looking for a comfortable and attractive pit stop on their Caribbean journey, as well as the best mechanic in Grenada should they be experiencing any problems with their vessels.

The resort also houses a small customs and immigration outpost, a grocery and bakery, a car rental, several restaurants, a pool, beaches and other amenities, so even non-sailers have plenty reason to visit.

Content as we were at the resort, we moved to Le Petit Bacaye for our last few days. The scene at this secluded bay on the island's south coast is hard to improve upon. Palm-thatched cottages with wooden slatted louvres are spread throughout a flower-filled garden, just yards from a beach that is completely deserted, save for a few brightly painted fishing boats. Gently lapping waves lull you to sleep in your mahogany four-poster and in the morning you can enjoy local fruits with your breakfast while watching the fishermen catch your lunch.

We were so taken with the sight of the industrious fishermen that on our last day we decided to try some fishing ourselves, signing up with the island's foremost watersports centre, Devotion 2 Ocean, which offers everything from diving courses to waterskiing and windsurfing. We had our hearts set on high-speed, high-octane sport fishing though, so at the crack of dawn, made our way down to the harbour to be met by a crew of instructors.

Four hours later, the ocean six barracuda fish poorer for our efforts, we began the journey back home, deliciously sunburned and absolutely delighted with our haul.

That night, as we sat down to a final meal made up of the fruits of our labour - the men had kindly gutted and de-boned the fish for us before we departed - we promised ourselves it would not be long before we would be back.

Factfile

Discover more about Grenada at www.Grenadagrenadines.com.

Golden Caribbean (www.golden-caribbean.co.uk, 0845 085 0800) offers return flights with Monarch from London Gatwick to Grenada from 425 per person. Flights are also available with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic.

Petit Becaye (www.petitbacaye.com) offers beautiful beachfront houses set in tropical gardens from 51 per person per night, including airport transfer. Fresh, home-baked breakfast available for 7 per person.

Le Phare Bleu (www.lepharebleu.com, 1 473 444 2400) offers one-bedroom beach villas from 154 per night.

• This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday on 24 April 2011