Walk of the week: Braeriach

The mighty Braeriach, at 1296m/4252ft the third highest Munro, lies on the Cairngorm plateau, west of the Lairig Ghru

The mighty Braeriach, at 1296m/4252ft the third highest Munro, lies on the Cairngorm plateau, west of the Lairig Ghru. Braeriach is the anglicised Braigh Riabhach, and, unusually for Ordnance Survey, the latter name is also mapped in brackets. Braigh, high land, and Riabhach, speckled, is a good description of the patchy vegetation alongside the grey granite gravel on the plateau.

On a previous visit in October 2004 with Jimbo and the Mountain Hare, a wet weather day, we opted for the popular, hence shortest, albeit partly eroded, way up – from the Sugar Bowl car park by the Cairngorm ski road, through the Chalamain Gap, then via the Lairig Ghru and over a subsidiary Top, Sron na Lairige. On the way I discovered that I was the only one with a map. Back at the car the only dry thing was the map – I wasn’t going to get it wet.

I returned last month, this time on my own, and with a mostly dry and clear forecast had the luxury of being able to take a longer, quieter and more scenic route, starting from Loch an Eilein and heading into Gleann Einich to a stalkers’ path. Cycling that distance saves time and is assumed in the Factfile time. During the main stalking season, September and October, please stay on the established hill path of the following route.

On a good day the subsequent high-level traverse of the Braeriach plateau gives a superb stroll. A bad day is another matter, and with limited visibility only an experienced hillwalker should venture forth. Keep it for an Indian summer’s day.

MAP REFS FOR GRAPHICS

Start 897085

Junction 905077

Junction 916078

Stalkers` path 920001

Top of path 926978

1265m Carn na Criche 939983

Infant Dee 943992

Braeriach 953999

From Aviemore and Inverdruie, follow the B970 for one mile, then turn left to reach the car park at the northern end of Loch an Eilein. Cycle on the track on the north-east side of the loch – a charming start to the day – then branch east following the signposted track to the gated entrance to Glen Einich at map ref 916078.

The glen cycle track is rough in places. Where the track splits, keep to the branch that stays closest to the river. After the long cycle to just north of Loch Einich, and by now at 500m, it will be a relief to use different muscles.

The key to the plateau, the stalkers’ path rises steadily for almost two miles into the crag-surrounded Coire Dhondail, easing the 500m climb to the cairn marking the top of the path. Even allowing for a stop to admire the waterfall, the plateau can be reached in 1½ hours from the loch. Then head north-east, a steady 250m ascent to Braeriach’s second subsidiary Top, Carn na Criche, at 1,265m the highest Top in the Tables. It has two cairns, continue to the easterly one, closer to the edge of the plateau. The ensuing curving walk round the cliff edges to Braeriach is a delight, but again care is needed in poor weather. An Garbh Choire, one of Scotland’s biggest and deepest corries, lies to the south of the summit, and holds the UK’s most permanent snow.

The infant River Dee oozes from the Wells of Dee, the highest source of any river in Britain, and as the water gathers speed it starts to make a small channel before crashing over the crags of the corrie as the Falls of Dee, the UK’s highest waterfall. The small channel is another good navigational aid point.

Head towards the narrowing summit area pinched by high corries, with the cairn very close to the sharp drop to Coire Bhrochain. Take particular care on return to find the cairn marking the stalkers’ path.

Map Ordnance Survey map 36, the Cairngorms

Distance 23 miles, of which 15 miles cycled

Height 1100m

Terrain Track, stalkers’ path leading to stony high plateau

Start point Loch an Eilein, south of Aviemore

Time 8 to 9 hours

Nearest town Aviemore

recommended refreshment spot Druie Restaurant Café, Inverdruie